From: "The "Keystone" jacket and dress cutter" by Chas. Hecklin, 1895
The pattern includes a lapel collar (dia. 63)
This pattern is formatted in A4 pages for easy printing at home.
measurements provided in the original pattern: 15 in, 10 in, 7.5 in, 36 in, 25 in.
Back Length Measure: Apply the measuring tape to the socket bone at the neck and measure down to the lower edge of the waist, which gives the actual length of the back.
Blade Measure: Measure from under the arm across to the center of the back.
height Under Arm Measure: Measure from under the arm down to the waist.
Breast Measure: Standing behind the figure we place the tape across the fullest part of breast and carry it under the arms and across the back, being careful that it adheres over the surface closely, and call off the measure. This should be smoothly taken, neither too close nor too easy.
Waist Measure: Place the tape around the waist and draw it tight.
find more information and figures in the original book.
The Victorians were not very size-inclusive. Due to that, this draft cannot be created in bigger sizes. Max sizes FOR THE DRAFT: 31 in. waist, 44 in. breast. However, people in different sizes may download the draft closest to their size and make changes (mainly in darts, take more or less) to fit their size. I also recommend making a mockup.
This pattern does not have seam allowance. Remember to add before cutting.
recommendations for this pattern: pad-stitching the lapel, adding welt pockets
It is recommended to go through the measurement guide when generating the pattern, as the measuring methods may be different to modern ones you know.